Algarve ExperiencesLive life with passion

You can’t help but notice just how many homes and commercial buildings across the Algarve are topped with ornate chimneys, whether working or not. These chimneys are a unique feature of the Algarve’s culture that have been brought forward from it’s Moorish past into modern times.

When Spain and the Algarve were conquered by Muslims over a thousand years ago many new technologies and plants were brought to the region. Castles were built to defend against invaders of all sorts, whether marauding Vikings or Crusaders en route to the Holy Land to save Christianity from Islam. Housing and public buildings were built in a style more familiar to North Africa. Citrus trees, almonds and other plants were introduced to the area. And ornate chimneys topped homes.

The Algarve still retains citrus trees, ancient castles, almond trees and the beloved Moorish chimneys. You can see examples that are very old as well as those that are clearly right out of a modern factory. Some are rustic with layers of old paint. Others are pristine white highlighted by blues, yellows and occasionally reds to match house trims.

Some chimneys are topped by wind vanes, cockerels or other ornamentation. I’ve found that as you travel east of Albufeira you are more likely to find chimneys topped with cockerels and other devices. However fancy or humble, it is always fun to drive around seeking out the most ornate chimneys around, to discover which house owners spend most time matching their chimney to the paint job and overall design of their home.

The anthropologist and psychologist in me thinking about what a great research study it would be to map choice of chimney to a person’s beliefs and commitment to a traditional or more modern lifestyle. For me, so often the really fascinating things about travel are the small distinctions that the locals take so much for granted but that we newcomers see as unique, distinct, idiosyncratic, playful and downright quirky. Here’s to the joy of quirkiness. The Algarveans do it well in so many ways, most publicly with their Moorish chimneys.

Finally. On my most recent Algarve trip the flamingoes near Castro Marim and Vila Real de San Antonio came out to play! These large, exotic birds are a regular feature of the far eastern reaches of the Algarve. And yet, for me, they had remained elusive until this trip. They provide easy birdwatching for those of us whose primary purpose is shopping!

As an additional thing to do in the Algarve, I decided to break with routine and instead of shopping at the Loulé Market one Saturday morning, I headed east to check out the action in Vila Real. And what a treat that turned out to be. As I drove along the highway between the A22 and Vila Real, I spotted a small flock of flamingoes on the tidal flats. I got some nice pictures and then headed into town one very happy camper.

Imagine my surprise when it turned out that Vila Real on a Saturday morning has quite a bustling, vibrant place. There’s a craft market in the central square filled with vendors offering hand made baskets, jewelery, linens, baked goods, honey, cork products and other goodies. Someone drove down from the Alentejo with a truck full of chouriço, presunto, cheese and olive oil. This added quite a festival air to the many shops with their linens and kitchen items spilling onto the sidewalks. I had heard that many Spanish folks came over for some serious cross-border shopping, and sure enough the sound of Spanish was heard everywhere. My fancy was also tickled as I watched folks rest on one of the many benches of the town square under a canopy of ripening oranges. For a Canadian, citrus fruit always seems like a marvel. And to think of resting in the shade of an orange tree seems downright magical!

There were also a couple of chestnut roasters offering this delightful winter treat at various corners. And a guy selling parakeets had a huge cage of pastel blue & green birdies singing up a storm. The kids were absolutely enthralled with his display. He even had a large green parrot that many adults seemed to get a kick out of trying to feed without losing part of their fingers to his thick, curved beak.

Down by the waterfront there was lots of action. A couple of groups of young sailors were racing down the river using the full force of a stiff breeze to try out their new techniques. And for the first time in several visits I saw a number of people working on their yachts and sailboats, perhaps getting them ready for the cooler weather of the winter rainy season.

After several hours of wandering about, savouring the sense of life this usually sleepy town has on a Saturday morning I decided it was time to head home. Imagine my surprise to discover that my flock of flamingoes was still there in the shallow tidal waters. This time I got a bit of video footage and became aware of their dance. They shuffle and skip lightly on their feet in the shallow water, stirring up the rich mud so that they can filter out the minute sea creatures that are their diet. Whatever they were eating, it wasn’t shrimp because these flamingoes were white, not pink, the colour of their features derived from the colouring of their food.

All in all a great Saturday morning. And while I missed the sea of vegetables, fish and other produce on offer in Loulé, I’ll definitely head back to Vila Real de San Antonio when I need a break from routine on my frequent Algarve trips.

The entrances to many places across the Algarve are inviting, artistic and visually appealing, whether they are public buildings or private ones. In some cases the doorways are old and covered in a patina of paint, dust and other grunge. But mostly I find people simply ‘do up’ their entrances to entice and appeal, to draw you in either for a closer look or to buy. Then again, it may simply be because the owners want to give themselves the pleasure of arriving at a lovely, enticing entrance to their abode or place of work.

Here are a few of the spots that call to me.

1.  A lush, elegant water entrance

2.  Doggy dressed up door stoops

Don’t know what it is about the Algarve, but people sure do love their pooches. Sadly, far too many are ultimately abandoned to wander the streets. But there are a lot of lucky pooches who simply wait for their owner to arrive home, faithful and hopeful that company will arrive soon.

These are two of my favourite little dogs, each clearly anxious for company. Makes me wonder what it would be like to have such a greeting each time I come home. . . . And I’m not even much of a pet person! But who could fail to love these charming little faces.

 

 

3.  Portuguese cemeteries are walled in

When you drive by a Portuguese community and see a large, walled-in enclosure you are likely walking or driving by the local cemetery. Public cemeteries in Portugal began to be established in the 19th century and their current form has developed since then. Cemeteries at that time became a place where wealthy families could display not only their wealth, but their culture and commitment to the arts.

So it is always exciting to find the cemetery entrance and either sneak a peak inside or go in for a ramble around. You’ll be certain to find a combination of grave-sites with ornate headstones and marble enclosures as well as masoleums containing generations of deceased family members. These small buildings are often ornately decorated and carved, containing lots of wrought iron fittings, stained glass, stone carvings and gleaming brass, lace and linen interior trim.

More recent additions are plain, rectangular ‘high rises’ filled with small lockers for individual coffins. They certainly add very little esthetic value to the cemeteries but clearly are an efficient way to deal inexpensively with a large number of deceased. People dress these little ‘bird cages’ up in imaginative and often highly tacky ways. And yet the overall effect is one of life and vitality.

Do stop and take a peek. I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised at what you can learn about a people in the way they bury and honour their deceased.

4.  My favourite hotel has a lovely entry way to its pool

No matter how many times I walk past the entrance to the pool at Hotel Vilas D’Agua, I always enjoy the view of the ocean it presents, as well as knowing that a lovely, serene swimming pool is just out of view.

The modern, square arch contrasts with the traditional cobblestoned walkway. And the blast of bright white plaster against a cerulean blue sky seems to only add to the delight I experience.

I know there is a pool on the other side of this entrance, but to me it feels like a magical portal. You know, one of those entrances where you can make up a great story about what awaits you on the other side. What would your story be?

5.  How could you not be tempted by a restaurant entrance like this?

I love to visit my friends Stefan and Lisa at Restaurante Rouxinol, just outside the Caldas de Monchique. Partly it is because I love the drive up into the mountains. Mostly it is because of the friendly welcome and great food and hospitality I know always await me.

But this entrance! Who wouldn’t be tempted upward to the patio by such a welcoming entrance way. It is a tight turn off the main road into Restaurante Rouxinol’s driveway, but as I leave my car and walk towards this inviting stairway I know that I will be well received. Each visit there are different flowers in bloom and sometimes the lemon and orange trees are in fruit. Other times the banana plants are bursting with lushness. You just never know. What I am certain of is a huge grin from both Stefan and Lisa, a bear hug and an invitation to sit, to enjoy, to refresh myself and to catch up. Now that is a special treat!

There must be something about the unique combination of sun, sand, sea and warm breezes that stimulates creativity because I find that the Algarve is loaded with creative folks. And those who choose to join me for my Feeding the Muse creativity retreat always find that it is so much easier to accept their creative nature here than at home.

Let me tell you about just a few of the immensely creative folks I’ve come across as I’ve been exploring the towns, villages and bi-ways of this glorious region.

First is visual artist Florbela Moreira whose collage paintings have inspired me from the moment I first entered her atelier in Silves a couple of years ago.  Her rich, vibrant colours, sacred/tribal themes and highly textured surfaces draw me to her art. I have a hard time keeping my hands to myself when in her small shop. I keep hearing my Mother’s voice “look with your eyes, not your hands” as my eyes flit from one creation to another. Florbela has always been generous with her time as I’ve hemmed & hawed over which creation to purchase on this trip. And she is patient as I whittle down my choices, keeping in mind that they must fit into my already swollen suitcase! Her artist husband can often be heard working away at his own art in a small room as we chat about Florbela’s wide assortment of amazingly well priced originals. I look forward to a return trip in October when I’m there to lead my Feeding the Muse retreat. With any luck, my retreat participants will get a chance to take in Florbela’s shop and talk with her about her amazingly creative approach to art. Florbela’s studio can be found at Rua da Sé, #10, Silves. As you walk down the main cobblestoned street from the Cathedral, you’ll find #10 half-way down to the stone arched apartments on the left hand side. Easy to miss. Florbela can be reached at 282 088 397 or florbela-moreira@mail.com

Next, thanks to my friend Vicki Good, Sales Manager at the Holiday Inn Algarve I had the pleasure of a delightful lunch with Barbara Fellgiebel, creator, founder and enthusiastic promoter of Lit Algarve, a bi-annual International Literary Festival where some 50 international and local authors host readings, seminars and speaking events all across the Algarve. Having done my share of event producing over the years, I was amazed and flabbergasted at the determination and commitment Barbara brings to her Algarve International Literary Festival project. Such scope of creative vision, such on-going passion and so much very hard work is involved in this type of enterprise. As a writer, I can only hope to be involved at some point in the future. The next International Literary Festival is scheduled for September, 2012. In the interim, Barbara keeps the Algarve’s literary community engaged by hosting a series of monthly get-togethers where authors can present their book and offer an associated workshop or seminar, if appropriate. To support the creative writing arts, you can connect with Barbara at +351 282 413 160 or e-mail her at fellgiebel@mail.telepac.pt

I’ve always been a keen networker, having discovered that you can never tell where one contact is going to lead you. Barbara mentioned during our lunch that there was an art show being held at the Visitor’s Centre at the Parque Rio Formosa in a few days. Now I’ve tried to find this Visitor’s Centre on earlier trips but had never been successful. So an art show was just the excuse I needed to head out and committedly explore the region. I finally found the Visitor’s Centre, only to realize that I’d driven right past it at least 5 times previously. My Canadian eyes was looking for the kind of imposing, brightly signed building we tend to plunk at the entrance to Canadian parks and public places. This centre was much more discreet. Signage is there, but you actually have to look for it, not have it whistle at you as you zip past!

Thanks to Barbara, my client Vicki and I spent a delightful afternoon discovering all kinds of art created by ex-pat German artists, it would appear. That’s one thing I’ve noticed from my trips to the Algarve. It would appear that ex-pat communities tend to stick together. Germans with Germans, English with English, etc. I suspect there is a hunger in all of us for the familiar that has us seek out people who speak the same language, know the same jokes, crave the same sounds, smells and tastes, even when we are drawn to exotic places to live. Anyhow, this was a wonderful art show with a Klezmer band offering background music and great eats and drinks as we wandered through several rooms of paintings and sculptures. But my favourites were outdoors. Several larger-than-life images of mythical people were hanging from the trees, swirling in the afternoon breezes. What fun they provided, especially when strains of lively Klezmer wafted across the meadow.

I know that I have barely scratched the surface of the creativity available across the Algarve. If you have an eye for art, an interest in literature or just enjoy interacting with artistic types, you won’t have to look far in the Algarve to have your needs met. And we haven’t touched on the wild array of ceramic artists, folk painters, crafts people and quirky guys who love to decorate their places in wild ways! Stay tuned for that post.

I was talking with some friends this morning. They have both given themselves the luxury of experiencing one of my retreats. And they are very clear that a retreat and a vacation are not synonymous, even though many women think they are. Now don’t get me wrong. I’m a big believer in taking vacations as often as possible. I also believe that one 3-week vacation a year does much more for our sanity than 3 one-week vacations possibly can. So what’s the big deal about a retreat then?

Basically it all comes down to the power of intention. Vacations, by definition, are periods of rest, relaxation,  and travel. They are opportunities to step outside our normal day-to-day activities, especially work and to rediscover how to relax, to play, to see new places and people. We return to our normal life refreshed, invigorated, ready again for the challenges of our life.

Retreats, on the other hand, are get-aways with an entirely different purpose or intention. They are opportunities to step outside our normal existence, to reflect upon who we are, to explore life’s challenges, to discover new things about ourselves and our relationship to our existing life, to consider changes we want to implement and then to move back into our life with a new perspective. Sure, a new perspective might happen by taking a vacation. But when we choose to invest ourselves in a retreat, we are committing ourselves to a process designed to up the ante on the likelihood that we will return changed.

Women, in particular, seem to be drawn to retreats that are designed to nurture and support them through periods of questioning their lives and purpose. Some women like retreats with a strong physical component: hiking, yoga, wilderness adventures designed to challenge our physical limitations. Others are drawn to religious retreats where the nature of God and their relationship with a creator is explored and deepened. Still others seek explorations of secular spirituality, of the meaning & purpose of their lives, of exploring and discovering their innate creativity and of letting go of lifelong habits that no longer serve them or bring the outcomes they desire. In my experience, women over the age of 40 are especially attracted to retreat experiences because they are examining their lives and wondering what they want from life after children, after work or after a significant relationship ends. Many have tried taking extensive vacations to exotic destinations, only to discover that while they had a good time and returned relaxed, the essence of their life hadn’t changed.

Our modern world is especially challenging for women. Not only are we expected to ‘be it all’, but we demand it of ourselves. Professionally successful, wise, sexy, always available to our friends, families and life partners. Oh yes, and young looking to boot! But for many of us, there comes a time when we begin to question our lives. We wonder

. . .what if

. . .what else

. . .what’s possible

. . .who might I become if

.  .  .

These are not only the only reasons why women need retreats, but I find that when these thoughts start to surface is the sign that we need to step off the exotic vacation treadmill and give ourselves the gift of a couple of weeks to ourselves, for ourselves, guided by someone experienced in creating a framework that breaks through our existing worldview and invites us to consider possibilities and potential we’ve never contemplated before. In short, we need to start to invest in ourselves and our future.

So when you notice yourself wondering . . .what else? . . .what if? find a retreat for yourself. Take the plunge. I’d certainly welcome you to any of my offerings in lovely Algarve, Portugal (shameless plug: A Taste of Life, Oct 9-24 and Feeding the Muse Oct 23-Nov 9, 2011). And you may need something different than I offer. So I encourage you to resist the urge to book yourself on yet another cruise or all-inclusive beach vacation believing that will make the difference you seek. Go online instead and discover one of the many wonderful self reflection and self discovery retreats that are available. Begin to invest in yourself, begin to prepare yourself to step into a future that you create and that you deserve!

Nespera By Any Other Name . . .

On my first several trips to the Algarve I kept noticing a fruit tree that I’d never seen before. It seems to grow everywhere, out of cracks and crevices, and each Spring these small trees are loaded with apricot sized and coloured fruit.

Turns out it’s what the locals call Nespera (nesh-pear-a). The woman who first introduced me to the name of the tree was somewhat dismissive of it. “Oh yes,” she said. “Nespera was introduced here and it’s a weed.” This spring I noticed it for sale at the Loulé farmer’s market. The fruit didn’t look especially attractive because it seemed to be quite bruised and beaten up. Turns out that’s the way they look as they ripen. Certainly not one of nature’s ravishing beauties! I bought a few and discovered an interesting plum-like fruit in texture with a couple of large seeds inside. It’s taste was a combination of citrus, mango and peach/nectarine. Pleasant enough, but not an immediate winner in the ‘can’t wait for my next taste’ category.

Imagine my surprise when several weeks after arriving home I noticed a basket of nespera fruit for sale at Pete’s Frootique out in Bedford, NS. Who could miss that combination of creamy beige colour and distinctive brown spots. And then I discovered that they were being sold as loquats. Which led me to discover that the plant was brought back to Portugal at the time of their great discoveries several centuries ago. I always have to chuckle when I realize that something that is taken for granted or dismissed at unimportant in one corner of the world shows up for sale as a precious, rare commodity in another corner of the globe.

I don’t know who in the Halifax area has a taste for pricey loquats, but a Nespera by any name is much better eaten right off a tree you are passing by!

Is there anything nicer when you are having a fabulous vacation than to treat yourself to a spa experience? Perhaps your preference is for a relaxing massage, maybe even one in a glorious setting overlooking the sea. Or you may be more of an esthetics person – pedicure, manicure, facial. Then again, there are all those mud baths and other exotic body treatments.

How are we to choose? How will we know that if we take a few hours or a day out of our vacation that we’ll have an experience that is worth the time and money? My friend Ben from Spa Villas D’Agua spent a few minutes with me offering tips on what to look for and consider when making your decision. He includes his especially important Factor X tip!

 

I’m a massage kinda gal myself. One thing I especially love about the Spa Villas D’Agua experience is hopping onto the golf cart and being whisked down the hill to the secluded and private corner of the grounds for a massage overlooking the Atlantic. So peaceful, so beautiful, sooo relaxing. I always feel like butter when I’m done!

Fado is an incredible Portuguese musical artform rooted in the ancient Alfama district of Lisbon. Usually described as Portugal’s form of blues, it is most often sung by women. These days you can find Fado offered in many restaurants around the Algarve. But don’t go looking for Fado houses in this neck of the woods; they are a feature of Lisbon’s unique brand of Portuguese culture. You aren’t likely to get the top ranking fadistas either, but you certainly can enjoy a fun evening of music for a modest cover charge.

It isn’t unusual once the fadista has sung a few sets to have locals begin to join in with their more earthy renditions of favourites. Sadly, I haven’t had much experience of the party evolving to this stage because I’m not much of a late night person!

The long deceased, but still reigning queen of Fado is Amalia Rodriguez. She set the standard for decades and many still try to emulate her vocal range, emotional depth and overall elegance and style. If you have a chance to spend an evening listening to Fado, I encourage you to do so. You’ll discover a world of passion and beauty!

 

When many people hear that I offer retreats in the Algarve they look puzzled and ask me what that’s all about. For many, a retreat is part of a religious experience that involves going off to some ashram, convent, monastery or other isolated place for a time of spiritual reflection and time away. If people know me at all well, they can’t quite make the connection as to why I’d be offering a highly ‘religious’ experience!

The truth is that in today’s world, time away from the madding crowd, a break from the hustle and bustle of daily life, a period of Self reflection and questioning about life is as important as it has ever been. Perhaps it is even more critical given the break-neck speed at which most of us live these days.

Time to consider new possibilities

What’s different now is that for so many of us, organized religion is not present in our lives, nor is it a priority; we are much more secular in our approach to living.  But religion was about much more than a belief in a higher power. Because it was organized, religion provided social connection and support; we were invited to consider our lives and our issues in a larger social context. That is missing for many people in today’s world.

So people like me, people deeply involved in the world of human growth and development have begun to offer ‘secular retreats’ to those in need of time and space from the daily grind.  We know that there are periods in every person’s life where we need to reconnect with ourselves and consider the larger context of our existence, whether we believe in god or not.  We also know that those who have eschewed a religious path likely haven’t developed the skills and practices to support a meaningful period of Self reflection. At some point, we discover that another beach vacation, camping trip or jump off a mountainside isn’t giving us what we crave. We don’t know how to find it on our own.  So most modern, secular retreats offer some sort of framework so that searchers, seekers, cravers and lost souls can get in touch with themselves in ways that not only satisfy a deep inner need, but that help to illuminate the future in meaningful ways.

Modern Secular Retreats

The approaches to modern retreats are many. Some have a highly kinesthetic dimension to them: they use exercise such as yoga or martial arts, combined with meditation as their focus. Others involve journaling, activities to break down barriers and spiritual practices of traditional cultures to expand perceptions or a combination of diet and exercise to shift awareness.

My retreats, for example, offer a period of adjustment from the busy-ness of daily life, followed by a period where educational models are offered that invite participants to consider their lives through new eyes, along with a series of conversations and exercises that invite Self discovery and awakening to new possibility and potential. I always allow a 2-week retreat period. The first week allows people to slow down, to bring body/mind/spirit back into alignment so that they can really have meaningful explorations of Self during the second, more structured week.

It’s all about priorities

In the end, if you are considering a retreat, the right one for you really is all about your priorities and what you want to accomplish. Come on back next week when I’ll be offering a post on tips for selecting the retreat experience that will best suit your needs.

Art in public spaces is not something I’ve encountered a whole lot of as I’ve traveled around the Algarve. However, on my January trip I did come across an impressive sculpture in a tiny little hamlet called Vila Nova de Cacela.

I had parked my car at the edge of the hamlet and wandered down to the fortress, enjoying the warm, sunny weather and then the incredible views out to sea and over to the Spanish border. It is easy to see why around the turn of the first century (yes, around 1,000 AD) a fortress would have been built to warn of maurauding pirates. It was subsequently well used in the centuries when the Moors and Christians passed control of the area back and forth. But sadly, like much of the Eastern Algarve, the original fortress was destroyed in the 1755 earthquake and subsequently rebuilt at the turn of the century.  Still, it is an impressive structure to our modern eyes. And unless the ground opens up and swallows the cliff upon which it rests, the views are stunning.

Next to the fortress is a lovely old parish church. As I came around the corner of the fortification and headed towards an opening with more views of the water, I came upon two lovely metal sculptures of palm trees that filled a quiet, sunny courtyard. No one else was about; I had the place to myself. As I stood appreciating the way the huge metalwork trees graced the spot, the church bells peeled out the hour.  All in all, a delightful few moments when nature, history and art combined to give me an experience I had not expected. That this moment occurred in such a tiny hamlet seemed to make it all the more special. I can guarantee you that only the tiniest fraction of visitors to the Algarve even know about this place, let alone these graceful sculptures.

Now Vila Nova de Cacela is not the only place I’ve encountered public art in the Algarve. But it certainly was the least expected art experience I’ve had. That’s what I like about wandering around on my own. I never quite know what will be around the next bend. It isn’t always as gorgeous as this hamlet and these sculptures, but it gives me the thrill of discovery each and every day that I set out to explore!

Look below for some of the other public art pieces I’ve encountered in my travels. I know that on my next trip I’ll be conscious about seeking out even more of them to tell you about, because I know they are out there waiting for me to turn a corner and discover them.